The First Expert Session of Isfahan School Handicrafts Held

With speeches made by experts and scholars, the First Expert Session of Isfahan School Handicrafts went underway whereas centered on carpet and tapestry.

As the Public Relations of the Academy of Arts reports, at the first part of the session, Sirous Parham, scholar and researcher of handicrafts called the Safavid era the golden age of carpet weaving in Isfahan, "Whilst carpet weaving in Iran dates back to several thousands years ago, we had three prosperous periods or golden ages which two of them belong to the excellent Safavid era," he said.



On the golden ages of carpet weaving, Parham said: "The first age harks back to Sasanid times and obviously has been documented in the historical works. The second age commences from the times of Shah Esma'eil and after nearly half a century during the last years of Shah Tahmasb's kingdom falls to a recession. The last age began from 1000 A. H. with the efforts made by Shah Abbas who was centered in Isfahan and flourished this art, but after a hundred years it again falls into the slump."

Following his speech, Parham referred to the remained works of this era and described the features of carpets in Safavid era, "The prominent feature of the carpets at the age of Shah Abbas is the creation of several excellent and in some way unique carpets which were woven by the command of Shah Abbas at royal workshops. These carpets sometimes include the written praise of the king and the time of presenting them to foreign courts has also been inscribed.

The Great Workshops, the Main Reason of the Prosperity of Carpets

Fazlollah Heshmati Razavi, a carpet and handicrafts researcher gave a lecture on "the Origins of the Carpet Art in Isfahan School." He regarded the establishment of the grand workshops for carpet weaving as an influential factor in the modification of carpets in Safavid era, "The approach of Isfahan school in Iranian carpet weaving was centered on the foundation of the grand and concentrated textile workshops which led to some changes both in quantity and quality. These changes were demonstrated both in form, size, the appearance of the carpets and the materials used for carpet weaving," he said.

To elaborate more on his remarks, Heshmati said "The weaving of grand and invaluable carpets became widespread in proportion with the magnificent and aristocratic palaces and halls. Moreover, the employment of silk, golden and silver threads became prevalent and intensified the beauty and glory of the carpets. Meanwhile in such a fundamental modification, the designs of the carpets were also influenced. The traditional and geometric motifs were replaced by the complicated Arabesque and gardān designs, patterns and the naturalist style and became totally pervasive."



Although in his view one of the notable points of this era is that ancient designs were also maintained in the carpets: "The important point of this school is that none of the ancient designs and motifs such as bush, tree, branch, garden, vase, various kinds of flowers and leaves were not neglected, even the motif of water lily, a memento from Sasanid was modified a little and its name changed to the "Shah Abbasi Flower." It became so prevalent and even nowadays is employed," he added.

On the classification of carpets in Safavid era, Heshmati said: "The realization of precious carpets influenced by Isfahan school particularly those which have been woven in Isfahan itself, demands a kind of classification. In this case, the selection based on the historic precedence at a geographical region is the best method for classification but regarding the fact that the number of carpets with historic inscription is so limited. On the other hand, the original places of some woven carpets are not clear, thus the classification has been made in another method."

He then began to account for three categories of carpets in that era: "The carpets which have been named according to their map and design, like goldāni, boute'ei, mehrābi, eslimi, … the second category is for the carpets which even according to a wrong perception are reminder of a particular region or attributed to that like Polonzi, Portuguese, Hindi, etc. The third carpets which have been woven with the method of kilin."

At the end of his speech, Heshmati described the method of carpet weaving in Safavid era as apermanent one, "at the times of Shah Sultan Hussein Safavi, after the invasion of Mahmoud Afghan, the Safavid dynasty declined but the Isfahan School method in carpet weaving preserved. In contemporary period due to the works of a number of masters including Issa Bahdori (the director of Isfahan School of Arts), Mahmoud Farshchian, Ahmad Arjang, Haj Mirza Imami, Rouhollah Zia'eian, Ahmad Koushesh, Asqar Bayat, Hadi Tajvidi, … are still prominent and well known," he added.

Following the session, a university teacher, Hussein Yavari also indicated that the most beautiful Iranian carpet's have been woven at the times of shah Tahmasb and particularly Shah Abbas, then he described the reasons for the prosperity of carpets and tapestry in Safavid era, "One of the positive and influential factors of the carpets in this era is the use of good materials and appropriate wools. On those days, the wool was provided from the sheep of Kermanshahand used for weaving the carpets. Therefore at those regions the breeding of this kind of ships were developed to provide the requested will for producing the various kinds of carpets," he said.



Furthermore, he pointed to the foundation of professional workshops for dying silk and other materials with natural colors which due to extensive orders from inside and outside the country gradually became more developed and concentrated.

But in his view the appropriate designs are one of the other reasons for success and popularity of carpets in Safavid era, "The prevalence and attractiveness of carpet design and production based on the maps and preconceived designs like toranje, goldāni, Herati, Sajadeh'ee and Polish has endowed a certain beauty and character to the carpets of this era," he stated.

Yavari also indicated to another aspect of the flourishing of carpets in Safavid era: "Undoubtedly a large part of the credit, reputation and brilliance of carpet weaving in Safavid era is due to the conscious, committed and definite management in providing the raw materials, producing the instruments for weaving carpets, dying, design, texture and finally the local market and exportation of these carpets to the other countries, since there was no mistake in any of the stages of the process related to pre-production, production and trading of the carpets." he added.

"Hence, there are about three thousands carpets have remained since Safavid era which are evidences of the highest point of perfection in Iranian traditional arts and demonstrate the unique skill, talent and creativity of Iranian artists at those times. From another view, the artistic management of that era can be a role model in the management of carpet, handicrafts and even contemporary Iranian cultural management.

One of the other carpet experts, Farshid Pouria also indicated to "Shah Abbasi Flower" in the designs of Safavid era. He regarded the design as adapted from the earliest times: "As its name implicates, 'Shah Abbasi Flower' has been created in Safavid era and throughout the kingdom of Shah Abbas, but its origins hark back to the previous times. In Timurid times, this flower was being used in the carpets and designs. Furthermore, in Mongols era 'Shah Abbasi Flower' was employed with the same components including flower, the bottom of bloom and petals" he said.



In the other part of his speech, Pouria referred to the carved flowers in Takht-e Jamshid and their resemblance to "Shah Abbasi Flower" and followed: "Some experts believe that the flower which have been designed in the hands of Darius, Achaemenid King is the same as 'Shah Abbasi Flower', but this one is water lily and if we observe it closely, we will realize that its components have no similarity to 'Shah Abbasi Flower.' Of course if we consider all the flowers of Takht-e Jamshid, we will find other flowers which in terms of their components are similar to "Shah Abbasi Flower," he added.

Pouria gave more details about his research item: "The petals, bloom bottoms and the middle part of this flower are similar to "Shah Abbasi Flower" in Kabud mosque. On the other hand, there is another flower with long stalks which resembles to "Shah Abbasi Flower" and in the upper stages of carvings, its stalks look shorter," he remarked.

At that moment, Pouria explained about the differences and semblance of flowers: "These two flowers are similar to 'Shah Abbasi Flower.'" They have been created concurrently with water lily by the order of Darius, that's why we can't say that they are the more progressive form of water lily."

In terms of carpet art in Safavid era, the expert said: "At that time, the scholar and artist were cooperated with each other. As a matter of fact we can trace the process of empowerment and decline of the empires. The carpet artists were creating the works which appealed to the audiences. Although they were creating that works in accordance with their ideas and tastes, but in the interim they were satisfying the needs of mass audiences. Throughout the Kingdom of Shah Abbas, the use of double knots in carpet weaving became so fashionable and was widely used. As the artists had strong motivations, they produced the work's which had stable technique and color quality."



"In Isfahan School the gold woven carpets of Isfahan and Kashan are so prominent and the largest carpet woven in Shah Abbas period which was sent to Najaf has always been the focus of attention in the local and international researches. Since Achaemenid era, the Iranian carpets have always had their own designs, so the customers were mostly demanding for Iranian carpets," he concluded.

Bahman Faizābi was the next lecturer who pointed to the establishment of naqāshkhaneh (painting house) beside the carpet workshops. At the age of Shah Abbas all the designed mechanisms were observable in these painting houses.

"The important event of this era is a dynamic interaction of all the handicrafts artists with carpet production. As a matter of fact, they were actively involved in the design of carpets. The carpet designers were influenced by the books of Sheikh Lotfollah, the designs of tiles and other elements of Masjid-i-Imam (Masjid-i-Shah) were visible in the design of carpets. At this era the compositions of carpets and designs had found an orderly style," Faizabi said.

"Even though followed their master, the apprentices of Reza Abbasi made a tremendous change in designs and although the central state was in decline, the Isfahan school proved its influence with "Shah Abbasi Flower." The inherited designs since ancient times have been inspired the artists who took the carpet art to its highest point, on the other hand the historical monuments were decorated with beautiful tiles which inspired the carpet designers," he added.

The following lecturer, Mehrangiz Mazaheri, university teacher regarded the carpets woven in Kerman as the most beautiful carpets in Shah Abbas era and said: "At that time most of the Iranian carpets were exported to India and Jaihoon design was the representative of Iranian carpet of Iranian carpet woven in Kerman."

"The most prominent design of kermani carpets was saki (saqi) which constitutes the structure of Kermani carpets. The usage of relief work and handicrafts is evident in Kermani carpets. In comparison with the carpets from other cities, kermani carpets had more length," she added.

 

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